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Installation of a Backpacking Stove

For outdoor cooking, a butane stove comes in a very handy. In comparison to a solid fuel, we can do much better cooking with the advantage of handling the heat with a butane stove. Such models of stove are nimble and transferable, rendering them the perfect backpacking companions for taking along on a trip.  Organizing a backpacking stove is fairly easy, see below for tips.

You’ll need the following items

  • There are two parts of a Campingaz Blueut butane stove. The canister will come individually and following are the items you need for cooking:
  • A burner “The upper part contains a needle in the bottom for penetrating the canister.”
  • A canister
  • A stove container or stand


  1. The canister should be positioned correctly in the stand.
  2. Wind up the legs as the bottom can still be opened easily, though it will not be capable of doing so after you attach the burner.
  3. Before attaching the burner, keep check that the gas valve is shut completely and a bit loosely as attempting such an act can make the threads wear out fast. You will get the hint that the burner has been attached to the canister as doing so won’t go in further. You won’t hear any noise, once the canister has been pricked.
  4. To make sure the canister has been penetrated, switch on the gas by moving the gas handle in a clockwise way in a well-insulated place. The stove is ready for usage, once you hear the hiss of the gas.
  5. Switch on the gas and light a matchstick when you hear the sound of the gas, it is a hint that you should light the stove now. You won’t be able to see the flame immediately but will feel the circling heat. Once a canister has been attached, don’t discard it after it has been used completely.  When it is finished, you can attach a new one, keeping in mind the above rules.


  • Always follow the manual as every model has slightly dissimilar fixing up ways.
  • A cold stove will never be able to run, so it is essential to keep check on the glacial temperature of your stove.
  • Always take help from the instructions guide of a particular model or brand you have, as cooking timings can depend on the make and model of your backpacking stove.
  • In the circumstance of wild winds, a windshield can be positioned and can be carried along. So, if the places where you are staying have such wind concerns, then during backpacking, do include a windshield.


  • If the stove valve is not closed potently then don’t unscrew the stove as it can erupt in a lethal fire.
  • If within 5 seconds you aren’t able to light the stove, then turn off the gas valve and after waiting for 5 seconds until the gas has scattered away, try lighting the stove again.
  • Shun using canisters or cartridges; these are not applicable for using on such stoves. Use those flame lighting tools which are favorable for your specific stove.
  • Seeing the flame in day time will be difficult so, don’t assume as if the flame is not there.
  • Make sure there is no fire within 30 feet from you, be it even a cigarette and never unscrew the stove burner unless you are not sure of the surrounding. An invisible gas can spread from the canister and can erupt into a fire causing a hazardous situation plus it can also follow the canister, resulting in a fire explosion in your hand.

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Share a bit more of my electrical system

I bought a 300W boat solar kit (3x bendable 100W monocrystalline panels and accessories) from @renogysolar, and upgraded the charge controller to an MPPT charge controller also from Renogy. I got 2 group 31 AGM batteries (wired in parallel for 210Ah) from @westmarineinc along with most of the wiring, fuse panels, circuit breakers, and shore power charger (have not had to hook up to shore power since the initial charge!). Picked up other miscellaneous supplies from Home Depot (the circuit housing in between the batteries, housing the fuse panels, busbars, etc.), Amazon (some inline fuses for each solar panel, and other miscellaneous things it was hard to find elsewhere), Fry’s Electronics (the 400W pure sine wave inverter–total overkill for my needs, as I haven’t even hit 70W real use through it, but that’s the idea), Camping World, and Autozone (tiny ins and outs like 2 separate 12V ports).


Everything is fused multiple times (plus 4 major circuit breakers–one on each battery, one at the connection of the positives from each battery, and another before the primary fuse panel), and the vast majority of everything is oversized for the load I ever put on it. Not shown, also is a NASA marine BM-1 battery monitor and (previously pictured) the monitor connected to the charge controller. More than meets all my needs! The solar panels are tied to the roof of the car when I’m stationary (still perfecting technique, but have used bungie cords and paracord, both to varying degrees so far), and then easily stack and slide in on top of all of my stuff in the trunk space when I move. I’ve considered a more permanent solution, but have held off so far. Came in around $3k total, doing the wiring and setup myself. A few bits need to be redone already, but I patched them up to a safe degree for now (nothing dangerous, but if I yank real hard at the right spots, I could break a couple of connections). Maybe fix it more this weekend.



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Check Your Electrolyte Levels


Just want to take a second and remind everybody about BatteryMaintenance. If you have Lead Acid batteries in your boat make sure you check your electrolyte (acid) levels. Even if your Batteries say Maintenance Free, unless they’re a AGM, or Optima style, more then likely theres fill screws under the sticker that says Maintenance Free. I have used Dekagroup 31 Master Marine lead acid batteries for going on four yrs now and at some point during every yr I top them off. I just used about a gallon of electrolytes (acid) in my 36V setup. You can use water if you have to. However for Longevity stop by your car parts store and pick up what you need. Keep in mind it is acid!!! so proper PPE is in order.

by Nibble This Charters

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Sprinter agm batteries discount



Example Sams group 31 is 105 amp hours and has a amperage discharge of 1000 amps and will run you near $200 bucks with tax. A Sprinter S12v370F is 132 amp hours with a max discharge of 4266 amps. With a price tag of $250 ( depending on total amount ordered). Making it cheaper than North Star, XS Power, Odyssey, Juice boxes performance line, Reikken’s pure lead series and Kinetik’s performance line. We use these in all our competition level builds requiring batts. They are perfect for burpsetups and big power musical builds.

We have used these in many builds and the performance is unreal. Ill mainly be offering group 31 sized batts (75lbs) and a larger 106lb monster same dimensions as a XS power D7500. I also can get smaller ones for under hood use.

They have low resistance, built with virgin lead agm technology, reinforced side walls, sealed and maintenance free, flame retardant cases and huge maximum amperage discharge. Manufactured here in the USA. They are built to order so no worries of getting a brand new batt that’s already a year old because it sat on a shelf in a warehouse . They will arrive to me direct from the factory and will be available for pickup in Aiken. Home delivery can be arranged for larger orders in the csra. More details TBA. Check out this like for full specs on the entire line.



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